Cura adds quite a bit of stuff to the top of the file before the Start G-code is added, just having the comments around it is handy when debugging. In my experience using this printer with Cura, its estimates are always a bit optimistic. It seems like at the end of the print, it doesnt really return to home, but instead just slightly raises the print head and puts the bed forward.
I just feel like it might collide with some models. Why am I just finding this now? I tried the app and it worked fine in both monitoring the printer as well as sending a file to print. Firmware 1. Printed a 20mm XYZ cube and it came out fine. All sides were within 0. Well I was the anonymous poster that managed to print a good 20mm calibration cube.
I even went back and uninstalled and reinstalled 4. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
Disclaimer Every model I have printed in this way has worked well and I am very pleased. Observations FlashPrint and the printer appear to use a custom file format for printing —. Getting Cura Firstly, you need to install the latest version of Cura from the Ulimaker website. You can now use Cura to slice your model as with any other printer.
With Adventurer Client I recently released a little tool that allows you to quickly send files to the printer by dragging them into the app no need to rename them as with FlashPrint. With FlashPrint If you rename the exported. Video You can also follow this guide as a video, below. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Thank you sir Like Like.
Hi Andy, Thanks for the write up. I then switched back to a Flashprint slice, and it printed fine, with no error. Andy Like Like. Thanks for the reply! Tristan Like Like. Thanks Andy! So I attempted to print the file you provided. Might be worth getting some other ideas Like Like. Thanks for all your patience debugging this. It can print faster, more accurately, and more precisely due to the Create a printer profile. Cura plugin which enables printing directly to OctoPrint and monitoring the progress.
Download for free. On the left side of the screen near the "Check Temperature" button, activate the "Watch" check box Changing options during printing also made Cura crash a lot. Instructions: Verify Octoprint plugin is installed. In this case - Anycubic i3 Mega S. Select "Install from list or specific location" and click Next. I do all my slicing using Cura as it is very flexible and integrates with Fusion for design.
OctoPrint is a registered trademark. I compared the gcode generated by xyzware against Cura for the same STL file and noticed Cura use G0 command in gcode whereas xyzware doesn't. Ultimaker Cura 4. This plugin is made possible in part by a contribution of ErikDeBruijn and my other github sponsors. The latest version features an updated user interface, more slicing options, an updated slicing engine, and better print quality than ever before.
Download latest version of software and try software yourself. Students in upper KS2 and beyond after some instruction can Ultimaker Cura Enterprise software makes it possible to prepare designs for printing with a 3D printer. Interface with Octoprint from any computer on my network. Or put a larger nozzle on it and print a faster infill. Click this options and you will be taken to the monitor window. Cura 2. Cross-platform, open source software, available completely free of charge.
Good day everyone together. PDF, and. If you're annoyed by downloading and uploading from Cura to OctoPrint for 3D printing, read on to learn how to set up this plug-in! Ultimaker Cura: Powerful, easy-to-use 3D printing software.
Trusted by millions of users, Ultimaker Cura is the world's most popular 3D printing software. Because no further gcode is sent to the printer it just sits in my case with the temp at and the fan on full blast.
Print beautiful colored objects, or use your secondary extruder to build support material. By carefully observing the printing process, you can identify problems with extrusion instability.
You can't turn the 3D printer on and off. X3G translation plug-ins is required to support Cura on Malyan Printer. This is kinda useless on Cura, usually, for this kind of task, I use a Repetier host that integrates Repetier server and makes the process much faster and easier. Send the file to print or engrave via the software Cura or Laserbox for mCreate, respectively. Printing via the SD card is much preferred Cura. Add Printer on Cura. Install the OctoPrint Connection plug-in.
Engineers, architects, designers, and research professionals rely on Simplify3D to deliver exceptional results with complete control over the printing process. The availability of remote printing couldn't have To make your 3D printer print high-accuracy models, the extruder needs to extrude the plastic stably.
Cura settings specifically print head size settings and why they are There is a known bug for the x-min and the y-min. However, I can't seem to get Cura to recognize the printer. If not already at V40, upgrade to v40 first. Make sure you have Cura version Cura should "notice" the printer. The world's most advanced 3D printer software. After making the connections, be sure to turn on the printer before powering up the computers. Just set the speed and quality parameters before initiating the printing process.
This is dependant on your operating system, and for Cura 4. One possible issue with printing over usb is that the way the motherboard handles the power is bad. If you're using Cura 3.
Y: Once you have done a slicing operation and Cura finds the printer, the "Save to File" button the big blue one bottom right in the Preview window will have a little arrow on the right side. It should save as a gcode file. Scale the model down to a smaller size.
Any tricks for better adhesion of pla to build plate? A shopper on Dec 7, I clean it off with rubbing alcohol and a gentle scotchbrite pad after each print and reapply glue. You can use hair spray. Try a very little amount, then adjust if needed.
I'd also like to suggest to cover the steel rods where the head glides. Hair spray dries tacky, leaving over spray on rods can affect it's performance over time. Put glass on the bed and then use a glue stick.
Also make sure it's level. If you don't use glass put painters tape and glue stick on top of it. A light coat of Aqua Net hair spray. Let it dry, then start printing. I use blue painter's tape.
Clean build plate with acetone. Painter tape will work. We cant get the filament to lay on the bed. What can we do? A shopper on Jan 2, Regardless of type, first put down some blue painter's tape.
I don't much like the tape the MP Select comes with. When the first layer is being printed, ideally the extruded plastic will be somewhat flattened. If it's just a round tube lying on the print bed then you need to raise the bed a little by adjusting the screws in the corners.
Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed move the head left and right and the bed front to back - the paper should drag a little on the head. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high.
Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to. For PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.
You should try and make sure that the extruder is extruding plastic out of it, raise it to the top and extrude some plastic. If that works then you should try and fix the bed calibration, since this printer is not autocalibrating, you need to set the bed level yourself. Start a print up, and when it starts to print and is at the right height turn it off. If not plastic is still coming out, or you hear the extruder motor skipping steps, then you should lower the bed a little bit, the nozzle is still too close.
Hope that helps :D. Make sure the bed is totally level. Home all, preheat the extruder and bed to the temperature you plan to print at.
Make sure that you remove the filament from the extruder, so it doesn't leak through, and give you a false measurement. Use a single sheet of paper, cut into a 1 inch 25mm wide strip, and manually move the extruder and bed so the extruder is about 25mm from a corner. Slide the paper between the nozzle and the bed, adjusting the corner screw up or down, until the paper just starts to drag. Repeat this at each corner of the bed twice, using a criss-cross pattern.
Finally, put the extruder in the center of the bed, and verify the paper can slide between with a slight drag. Load your filament, and you should be in business. In almost all cases when you can't get filament to stick it's because your bed level is not quite right.
Home the hot end and use printer paper to check that the height is correct. You should be able to stick one piece of paper between bed and nozzle with a very slight drag for pla or abs.
For petg use three thicknesses of paper with a tight fit. Move the hot end to the other three corners as well and check them in the same way. Adjust the leveling screws if you have trouble. Just before printing wipe off the bed with isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel. If you are using PLA, apply masking tape to the bed, and increase the temp of the nozzle by 5C or so. If it is ABS, then you need to heat the bed as high as it will go and the nozzle to and use tape as well. Any chance of increasing the bed temperature to C?
I print almost exclusively with ABS, and this printer would be perfect for my smaller parts with that option. A shopper on Dec 4, The built in controls top out at 60, but if you're running something like Octoprint or controlling it with a PC, you can set the bed higher.
That said, I'm not sure you could get it to C without a lot of patience. I powered mine up and set it to C and after around 85C it really starts to struggle to get any warmer. After fifteen minutes of heating it's still not quite 90C. There are mods for it. I can't post a link, but there is a post on Hackaday about how to get the bed up to C.
You would need to a different bed. Maybe something with an external controller? Is there g-code to switch the cooling fan off? I often start printing in the evening and leave the printer over night to do it's job. Is there any way gcode maybe? I mean, printing takes like hours and the fan is on for few more hours without any need until I switch it off in the morning.
Greeting from Poland! New User U on Dec 6, You can search on Thingiverse for a fan duct that covers the air flow to the print. You want to be very careful about switching the fan OFF. If the hot end is still too hot and the fan turns OFF you can damage the hot end non-functional. I believe the code is E13 to turn off the fan. Can this printer be used in a Linux environment? A shopper on Mar 8, In Serial mode, If your printer control software supports writing to a serial port in Linux, it works there too.
Works fine connected to an Ubuntu I'm sure other configurations would work as well, but I haven't tested any yet. The printer is stand alone. Only the print processing software slicer you use must be compatible with your operating system.
I'm using Debian. Currently using it under Funtoo. A shopper on Mar 9, The file needs to be saved with an STL file extension. Example lego. The MP mini has one of the best support forums available. You can! For its limitations, you can really get a lot done with this printer. I own 10 of these little gems. Use them for production. I don't see why not. You can take files from any program that can export STLs and use them with Cura. What do you use the MicroSD card for?
A shopper on Aug 20, Basically put the SD card in your computer, write the gcode to it, then move it back. It's also nice if you're doing demos at schools or whatever, you don't have to bring a computer or have it hooked up, you can just run the printer by itself. Once you have your G Code or printing paths created, you transfer them from your computer to the printer with the MicroSD card.
I believe this can also be done with a USB cable but I prefer using the card. The printer can be used standalone with no connection to a computer.
Pre-sliced gcode files are put on the sdcard and printed. It is also used for firmware updates. You store the sliced Gcode files of the object you want to print on the MicroSD card. I believe you can load profiles onto the printer as well as designs to print. What color is the sample filament that's provided with the printer? My printer is on its way and I would like to order extra filament in different colors. A shopper on Jul 29, You will still want to get a full roll of white as well as other colors you want to get.
I got a small spool of just standard white PLA filament, I assume it is the same for all orders. Samples are white. Hatch box is the best pla.
I have 5 printers using hatchbox. Basically, the software when loaded onto an Arduino creates the heart of a low cost high performance cnc controller.
It allows us to use an Arduino to run our CNC machines. The best part, I do not need a computer with a parallel port to run my CNC mill. It also manages all of the timing necessary which allows for the machine controller to be computer agnostic. The following is directly from the GitHub page:. Open source — v0. In fact several companies use GRBL as the motion control software of choice. Arduino is everywhere. People are familiar with the hardware and IDE.
Its low cost minimizes the barrier to entry for CNC motion control. Using the Arduino platform aligns with the larger maker movement of democratizing fabrication. No more trying to find a boat anchor of a computer with a native parallel port. Most industrial and many hobby CNC controllers require a parallel port. GRBL has many advanced parameters that many beginners will not need.
However, these functions allow the user to grow into using the full capabilities of their machine. I am having a hard time writing this. Keep in mind, I am not aware of a comparable alternative for comparison. I find it hard to complain about free software that provides so much utility. Backlash is lost motion due to the mechanical components of the system. The best way I know how to explain this is consider a traditional milling machine.
You turn the hand in one direction and the table moves. If you stop and then turn the handle in the opposite direction, the table will not move immediately in the opposite direction. Backlash is measured in the number of thousands of an inch the handle rotates before the machine table moves.
The machine controller will use these values each time the machine changes direction to improve the precision of the motion. However, I created this pocket guide to help with the setup. In order to create a cnc controller using GRBL software, we need a few additional items outlined below. Note, you will need to power your Arduino separately. I power mine over the USB line from my netbook.
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